If you follow my Instagram or have read previous posts, you'll see that beaches are what usually call my name when heading on adventures. But skiing in the beautiful mountains, breathing in that fresh crisp air with views from what feels like the top of the world, also gives me absolute joy! With an Epic Pass in hand this season, I told myself I would go on a European ski trip, so when a freak sale on Delta popped up with tickets to Europe for only 58k SkyMiles, I immediately booked a trip to Milan - I was headed for the Dolomites!
I've always dreamed of skiing the Alps and to experience the Euro culture in the mountain villages. My sister had once skied the Italian Alps and told me about the mountainside chalets, where Grappa flowed like water and the Italians and neighboring Germans on holiday were all dancing in their ski boots to house music. This was something I had to see for myself, and I finally did!
“For us to go to Italy and to penetrate into Italy is like a most fascinating act of self-discovery." -D.H. Lawrence
FIRST STOP: MONTE BONDONE
With the Epic Pass I had 7 consecutive days to ski in any of the 8 Skirama Dolomiti resorts. My top two choices were the smaller Monte Bondone and then the largest and fanciest of them all, Madonna di Campiglio. With anticipated jet lag and wanting to get acclimated to the mountains, I booked my first 3 nights in Monte Bondone and it was a great choice! The town is small, cute, full of locals, and everything is within a short walking distance.
After going from car>plane>plane>bus>train>train>taxi, I arrived after dark to my hotel, Chalet Caminetto, and it was the perfect landing spot. After a 30-minute drive up a curly cue mountain road from Trento, I arrived absolutely knackered, was greeted by the ever so simpatico Aldo, ate dinner, used the spa, went straight to bed, and woke up to the most incredible views of the Dolomites right from my balcony!
I highly recommend Chalet Caminetto for so many reasons. It was 100 meters from the ski lift, the spa is beautiful, the food and wine were amazing, the views from my room and balcony were an unobstructed view of the Dolomite mountain range, and the staff there (Matteo, Aldo, Davide, Martina) all were fun, kind, helpful, and made me feel at home.
The ski resort itself is small and there aren't many runs, but the views are stunning, the snow was great, and each lift starts in different towns down the mountain, so wherever you stay, you can walk to the lift to ride up each morning. Bar al Sole at the top of the Palon lift is THE spot to have a wine-paired lunch and meet new friends (like I did!) and the Apres ski with music and views of the sunset and moonrise is at the bar at the mountain base.
SECOND STOP: MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO
How do I feel about this ski area? I’m already planning my return! Whistler/Blackcomb had been my favorite mountain to date, but Campiglio knocked Whistler right off its winner’s platform. With 360 degrees of ski terrain, 57 lifts (seggiavie), 108 slopes (piste), an abundance of sexy restaurants and bars for Après skis, dinners, or late night drinks, equal parts high-end and budget shopping, city lights, and of course beautiful people everywhere you look, this is now my top ski destination. There are 4 mountain ranges all connected within Madonna’s Skiarea, so give yourself more than a week to explore them all - there’s so much to see!
There are infinite experiences to be discovered and since I am only able to share my personal experience, which was pretty damn amazing I’d say, feel free to use this post as a guide.
I stayed at a B&B hotel I probably would not stay at again: Hotel Garni Arnica. I was staying 5 nights and since this B&B was economical, had a spa, right in town, and walkable to 3 different gondolas, I booked it. I paid about $350 for 5 nights and it was a good, but not great, experience.
When skiing, it’s vital for me to use the hot tub and steam room/sauna both in the morning as well as post skiing, to soak my muscles, detox, hang out or meet other people, but their jacuzzi was not a “hot tub” and the spa area only open from 4pm-7pm - prime Après ski time and not open at all in the morning. That doesn’t work for me. That said, the breakfast was delicious, the owner’s son was super helpful, the hotel was sparkling clean and had a bar right on the first floor. I also had to work a couple of the days while staying there and my room had the perfect office space with a view to do so. So if you're on a budget, or working remotely, and if a spa experience is not important to you, then it’s a great choice!
When choosing accommodations, I would suggest to stay in the heart of town and near the Cinque Laghi or Spinale gondolas - they will get you everywhere on the mountain! Most hotels offer a free delicious breakfast and a prix fixe dinner option for around 20-30 Euro, and also have ski/snowboard locker rooms available. A few great options:
Hotel Arniston - sister hotel to Arnica, great restaurant, great value, centrally located
Spinale - stylish, center of town, great food and bar
Hotel Oberosler - stylish, in the town center, home of famous Apres ski at Ober 1
Hotel Splendid - next to the lake in town, 4 stars with a great spa
Chalet al Floss - a perfect stay for lovers, a bit outside of town but a luxury mountainside stay with multiple hot pools, amazing spa, and you can have breakfast with llamas!
WHERE TO DINE AND DRINK ON THE MOUNTAIN:
What I learned when skiing with local Italians is that they love to ski, stop, drink, ski, stop, drink, and ski. Not what I’m used to but t’s a fun way to visit all the “rifugios” (mountain bars) and get to know other people. We stopped at sooooo many rifugios and they each have their own charm, below are some of my favorites!
Rifugio Cinque Laghi - at the top of this gondola there is a bar with outside seating (solarium) - a great spot to have a Bombardino and take in the views in a lounge chair by the fire!
Rifugio Chalet degli Angeli - an adorable chalet on Folgarida to have a beer and Austrian inspired Italian lunch. Family owned, warm, welcoming, and a must stop during your stay!
Patascoss & Pradalago- great mountain bars to meet up, impressive views, and both are fab places to dine or Aprés before your last run of the day
Chalet Fiat - For the best mountain dining and mid-day drinks recommended to me by a local, this restaurant/bar is perched on the mountain with spectacular 360 degree views, a VIP area, fun beats and the best food on the mountain. I had wild mushroom fettuccini one day and venison ravioli another. Both with Altemasi of course. Delish!
LAB Après Ski - this party is at the base of the Grostè lift (seggiavia) and has a DJ along with a fun crowd. A must stop at the end of the day!
Ober 1 - another hot Après Ski spot right at the base of the Spinale gondola. Amazing beats and one of the two most lively Aprés ski venues in town.
WHERE TO DINE AND DRINK IN TOWN:
There are plenty of places to dine and enjoy the nightlife and all are within a 5 minute radius. The main piazza has a few great spots - check them out!
Cafe Campiglio - I was here my first night and every night thereafter to pop in and enjoy a pre-dinner drink (apertivo). The tented patio is beautifully lit with twinkle lights, the seats are draped with lambskin, there are fires at each table, the beats are as delicious as the wine, and the service there is impeccable. The Jumper crew runs this bar, and they also run the LAB Après Ski events. Ask for Luca when there - he will take great care of you!
Shane at Bar Maturi - centrally located on the main road this bar is a great spot for a late dinner, after all other restaurants close which is normally around 8pm (or 20:00 bc they use military time in Italy). I found this spot my second night and loved it! Great cocktails, chill music, attentive and attractive staff, and a diverse menu.
Bar Stube: This was a great little intimate locals spot! I met the best people my first night there and was able to get to know them over laughs and drinks during the week. They have a massive selection of Grappa, wine and beer, as well as food for late night dining. Coman, the handsome and cheerful bartender is your man, and the adorable Desirèe will be sure to make you smile!
As in everywhere in Italy, whenever you have a drink at a bar they always bring bar snacks. These are usually olives, nuts, salami, prosciutto, crackers and cheese. You will not starve!
WHAT TO DRINK ON THE MOUNTAIN:
Bombardino - a delicious local liquor, served hot to keep you warm all day
Camineto - a Bombardino with espresso and whipped cream - my go-to!
Hot Chocolate - not your typical American hot chocolate, but thick, creamy, melted chocolate in a cup!
Grappa - try them all!
Altemasi - a local sparkling wine from Trentadoc, served everywhere and inexpensive
Vin Brulé - a warm mulled wine with fruit
Aperol Spritz or Campari Spritz
Beer - German Beer is popular in this region, and of course, Peroni
GETTING THERE:
Flying into Milan makes it a breeze to get to the Dolomite region near Trento. I opted to ride the train to take in all the sights along the way, but renting a car is also easy and affordable in Milan. Other international airports nearby are Venice and Munich, and once in any of these three cities, public transport is easy, fast, and economical.
HELPFUL TRAVEL TOOLS:
Rome2Rio - my go-to App for how to get from Point A>Point B anywhere in the world.
TripIt - this App is an amazing tool to keep track of all aspects of your trip. You simply forward your email confirmations for flights, hotels, car rentals, tickets, etc., and it immediately organizes them all for you - in super helpful detail. Check it out!
kayak.com - I find this to be the best site for hotel stays - it searches all other sites for you!
Google Translate - want to be able to speak to someone that doesn’t speak the same language? It can be a bit awkward when used for romantic situations, but for the times you do need to use words when in a foreign country, this is a must have App. Side note: life abroad would be easier if WhatsApp had in-app translator capabilities!
Stay tuned to read about the days roaming the streets of Verona, the City of Love, and then getting my passport pickpocketed in Milan, the fashion capital of the world!
As always, I appreciate you taking time to read, and I hope this inspires you to perhaps book a trip to the Dolomites to experience the magic yourself.
Ciao for now!
Sara Lana
And a heartfelt "Ciao" to all of those I spent time with along the way: Fabio, Lucia, Luca, Matteo, Coman, Desirée, Chiara, Jonathan, Alberto. You each made my trip to Italy that much more incredible. Piacere tutti e non vedo l'ora di rivedervi presto!!!
