I had been spent summers in the beautiful South of France, when the yachts I worked on were based in the Cote d'Azur, but I had never made it to the City of Love. So what better place to spend a milestone birthday than in Paris - the land of Champagne!!
Since I'd never been before, I only booked the first two nights in a hotel and wanted to see the city first, before choosing where to stay. You'll see that a lot in my travels: I book the first two nights, and figure the rest out along the way. For me, it's the only way to go. I was in love the moment I landed, and the days that followed were more amazing than I could have imagined.
I could write for days about this city! There is an abundance of magic around every corner, so much art, beauty, fashion...it's hard to stick to a plan, so don't! I recommend having a list of things you want to see and do as a guide, but when you're there, be open, and allow whatever happens to happen. That, my friend, is how the magic happens!
A few musts while in Paris: the Louvre (get there early!), Rodin, Luxembourg Gardens, visit the Hermes store, d'Orsay, see the flowers in the Four Seasons George V lobby, walk the Seine, the Champs Elysees, experience all of the arrondissements before you choose where to stay, rent a car and drive the countryside, eat what you want (you'll walk it off), drink the wine, eat the street food, buy the art, and keep your eyes and heart open to allow the city to fully embrace you.
Total side note here: I had heard of the street Champs Elysses, which by looking at the spelling thought was pronounced Shaumps-ē-lease. However, when spoken it actually sounds like Shaun-zil-ē-zay. So I kept looking on maps or in the books for a street called Chaughn Zillezay, or at least something close to that. Nothing turned up. It wasn't until I was on the actual boulevard that I realized they are the same thing. Doh! The spelling and pronunciation have absolutely nothing in common. Americans in Paris I tell ya!
"Paris is always a good idea." -Audrey Hepburn
When I told my coworkers I wanted to spend my birthday in Champagne, someone thought I meant in a bathtub filled with champagne, wearing a snorkel and fins. No, no, no. The Champagne region of France!
The day before my birthday I rented a car and headed for Champagne. Driving in Paris is a blast in itself, and the countryside was more breathtaking that I could ever imagine! Rolling hills of flowers, beautiful small villages, farms, all the way to my first stop in Champagne, Veuve Cliquot!
I had a glass of La Grande Dame served to me out of the Veuve Airstream while I booked my hotel that night. Not just any hotel in Epernay, but a castle - I was going to wake up on my 40th birthday in a freaking castle! I drove through the iron gates and arrived at Chateau D'Etoges where they greeted me with you guessed it, champagne! They brought me to my room and it was at the tippy top of the chateau. The room was massive with toile wallpaper and windows overlooking the beautiful gardens. Oh, and the castle was surround by a moat. A real fucking moat!!! I felt like the most beautiful princess in all the land.
My birthday eve dinner in the castle was 9 courses, complete with wine pairings and dishes that blew my mind (see photos for cheese cart). I was the only one dining alone, but I was all dressed up and probably having the most fun out of anyone there. After dinner, the sommelier sent me to my room with a gorgeous bottle of red to enjoy while taking in the day. Don't mind if I do!
I awoke a little groggy, but opened those big windows, looked over the moat out to the gardens, and wished myself a very happy birthday! I walked the gorgeously landscaped grounds, smelling the lilacs, listening to the birds, and felt every ounce of gratitude for being right there, right then, in that moment. I was pinching myself!
My friend Annette (who was on the trip with me, but we were doing our own things) and I had dinner reservations in Paris, so I had to hit the road! But not. before I walked the Rue de Champagne. The street in Epernay where all the champagnes of the world are housed. Basically, the street I will live on in heaven.
After walking the street, tasting all the different champagnes, and basically frolicking along the rue, I got in my car and headed back to the City of Lights. The Tom Tom they gave me got me lost, I didn't have internet or service, so I tried to figure out my way home, only to get further lost. I was driving up a hill, a bit stressed that I wasn't going to find my way, and then, right as I reached the very top, I exploded with pure joy. I was at the top of Champagne! My getting lost brought me to one of the most stunning views I had ever seen-I could see vineyards for miles! After spending time taking it all in, I hopped back in the car, listened to old-skool rap and drove the long, breathtaking, back roads route to Paris.
When I arrived at my new hotel I was in a hurry. I double parked my car, ran in and the super fashionable, handsome man at the front desk was quite helpful. He came to help me with my bags, re-parked my car and begun to check me in. Only one thing: I was at the wrong hotel! My hotel was right next door. Whoops! So he walked me over, told me it was a shame I wasn't staying at his hotel, and that I could have breakfast there the next morning.
My birthday dinner at the Four Seasons George V, a Michelin starred restaurant, was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I wore my favorite twirly dress, Annette and I enjoyed copious amounts of rosé Champagne, had I don't remember how many courses that blew our minds, were doted on by the gorgeous maître d', and then the Chef invited me to the kitchen!! I was again blown away by the hospitality, for the unforgettable artistic and mind-blowingly delicious courses, and for all of the magical moments. How am I so damn lucky to have these experiences? I do not know, but I thank the Universe every day for presenting them to me.
I didn't make it to breakfast the next morning, but the gentleman from the hotel next door, had croissants and a latte delivered to my room, with a little note to call him. More on that in a bit. The rest of the trip was spent seeing and doing as much as I could. One stop I had to make was to see the Impressionism paintings at the Musee d'Orsay that I had adored since I was little girl - particularly the Monet and Degas.
I'd spent the day sightseeing and the d'Orsay was my final stop. It was about to close so I beelined it right to the exhibit where a guard told me it was closing and I couldn't go in. Nooo! I told her I would be quick, and I simply MUST see this exhibit or my life would not be complete. One look in my eyes, and she said to go ahead. I have 5 minutes. So I ran through the many rooms, searching for my favorite pieces and as I found myself in front of the Woman With a Parasol paintings, I literally broke down into tears. I was overtaken by joy, gratitude, and filled with the beauty of the moment I was in. I had made it. I didn't see him at first, but there was a man there beside me and when he saw me crying he said, "It's so very beautiful, isn't it?" Yes, kind sir, it sure is.
When I called him, the hotel gentleman wanted to pick me on his moped and take me for a local's tour of the city that night. Of course I said yes! We enjoyed the night at a Moroccan restaurant, walked and romanced along the Seine, and the best part was him showing me his favorite view of the Eiffel Tower in the city, and then he drove right underneath it which was amazing! A trip to Paris would not be complete without a little romance, right? I mean, I was in the most romantic city in the world!
Like every city, there is so much to see, so much to do, and so little time. My favorite parts were finding the off the beaten path cafes, getting lost in the streets and alleyways to stumble upon places and things that are not written about in the books. Seeing the abundance of street art, stopping for coffee and wine and cheese plates throughout the day, and the absolute best part was seeing the Eiffel Tour in all her beauty, around every corner of the entire city no matter where you were. Like the Sydney Harbor, or Grand Canyon, one cannot truly fathom the beauty or grandness of Paris until it is staring you back in the face.
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